Overnight sleeper class train to Udaipur from Delhi

The 30-minute late train was slowly moving on to the platform, it was long it had over 18 carts. — Where is the sleeper class? — We quickly realized that our coach was further down, so we ran and pushed through our way. Everybody was in a rush to get on the moving train to Udaipur.
We hopped in and started to maneuver through the crowded couch to find out seats. We located the seat number but no free seats; a chubby family eating Rotis occupied our space.
—Sorry, but seat umber 41 is not here. — One of the young girls tried to convince us that it didn’t exist. But it was there a fat woman was pretending she was sick was sleeping on it. We made fuss and made them move, sat down and began to observe our surroundings.
We were the only foreigners in the coach and probably in the entire sleeper class. What is a sleep class? It’s a non-AC wagon with three tier beds that fold out for the night. It’s smelly, dirty with plastic seats and bars in the windows. It’s also the most diverse class on the train, you can find the poor, the rich, students’ families and freeloaders trying to scam.
All eyes were on the toddies, so we stared back and watched as the coach was filling up passing the capacity. Our space for three was becoming space for 4 and 5. Standing space was getting spicy and getting ready for some armpit marination. The over crowding was making an impossible bathroom though or run.
— Iza, are you ready for this ride? An overnight 12-hour ride? — I asked and smiled looking at all the staring eyes.
In no time, a big fuss and argument started happening when two people were fighting for the same seat. This was the first time I have seen a girl raise her voice and fight for something in India. Actually she was good, damn good, she won, and the older man took off in search for another seat. But it took a while for him to give in, and it took the entire coach involvement. We didn’t understand a word, but we understood the argument, entertainment before the night.
Eventually I couldn’t hold my pee and I started to make my way to the toilet that was located at the end of the cart, stepping over sitting people, and ducking under smelly armpits I made it to the toilet. The toilet was pissed on, shit on, and I saw the moving tracks through the hole. — Ughhh, disgusting.
When I retuned Iza was swamped with more people, I barely saw her face. Colorful ladies, who didn’t care that I paid for the seat, occupied my seat; I kindly asked them to get the fuck up and move. I opened the bed and it was time to sleep. Sure, they moved, for a second. After laying down the little space that was left on my bed, they jumped into it and pushed themselves into me.
I couldn’t say no, sharing is caring, so I shared my space with a family of three who was freeloading for the ride. People were everywhere, on the floor, double up sitting, lying down and “Chai, Chai guy” was squeezing through selling Chai.
The train was rocking, the farts were sounding and the lights went out. I closed my eyes and I tuned out. In no time a sharp movement jerked my body and I opened my eyes.
— Where is everybody? I freaked. The train was empty; Iza and I were the only ones left. The train was still moving, I quickly glanced at out belongings they were still locked to the bench and my shoes were still there. I got up to the toilet and I calmed down when I saw few other random people sleeping.
— Where are we? Did we miss out stop? But we didn’t we were still hours away from Udaipur. What happened to all those people? Was it all a dream? Impossible, I still smelled them.
I closed my eyes and went back to sleep to the rocking of the train.

6 thoughts on “Overnight sleeper class train to Udaipur from Delhi

  1. I want to hear the rest!!! Love that – I kindly asked them to get the f**k up. Keep the India reports coming – it's convincing me that I am correct to skip it until I can afford the 5 star tour.

  2. Quite an experience. I am glad to be living vicariously. And gladder that no one stole your stuff!

  3. Dear friends, I hope that you didnt have such type of exp, while travelling to Varkala !!.

    Pl do post about those trips too, .

  4. Hi there,

    I think if you guys were so concerned about the quality of travel, you should have spared some more money & booked yourself on 2nd AC class or 3AC class of Indian railways…
    A blog on good and pleasant experience will come out surely if you do that 🙂
    Moreover i would also like to say Luxury trains like
    PALACE ON WHEELS & MAHARAJA's EXPRESS also run In INDIA if you want to have world's best experience on RAIL….




  5. I would agree with Sudhir above, if you got no money to spend on Quality Travel , complain no more instead capture the rich diverse experience . Its life changing in the way that when you are back home you get to know, what luxuries are bestowed upon thee and you never get to appreciate it. This is how real India lives, survives evolves and thrives every day and it is a deep experience. You wanna be comfortable, not fighting for your space don't be a miser instead spend a little more ( it will still be cheaper than anywhere in the world ) and will give you the comforts you think you want!!!!

    For the gentleman who thought it was wise to Skip India, I feel sorry for you dude, since you just happen to miss a very rich and diverse part of the universe, and undoubtedly the richest oldest civilization surviving on Earth in terms of Philosophy,Varied Life Sciences, Thought, Medicine, astrology, Religion, Music and not to mention the most interesting Food that I have experienced in 5 continents. The country has depth which you will never understand until you experience it, bcos most of us, just see the rest of the world from only an outer surface only.

    Having said that, the blog is super funny and interesting 🙂 Well written and funny!!!!

    Hobbs 🙂

  6. it was quite an experience for sure and I also had when the only seats left were on 3rd class sleeper. It was a big lesson and I never booked on that class again and only did then because no seats were left. In fact it was sort of funny too. I remember the same thing happened to me re the sleeping bed but I am an old lady and I snarled and screamed and none even sat on my bed. Maybe its age. Climbing thru the bodies to the toilet was exactly the same experience. Rough but a relief once there. Traveling in this class and lower (unreserved chair) means that you have to be pretty tough. I know alot of couchsurfers -students with very limited funds – traveled that way knowing that nonductor can get down the aisles and basically it is free. Thats India. I loved all the experiences and thought it was wonderful that people without money could still travel.

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